![]() Any major spring pruning can result in bleeding stems and possible infection. This type of pruning should not be done in winter or early spring to prevent die back and/or infection of cut stems. Any pruning to shape should be done sparingly and in the late summer to early fall when the sap has slowed. The pruning needs of Japanese maples consist of removing dead or damaged wood and any small crossed shoots in the fall and opening up the tree’s centre to allow for air circulation. Failure to be properly dormant can cause die back and winter damage on the maple’s shoots that often does not appear until the following spring. Fertilizing these beds into the fall will continue to encourage new growth on the maple and will hinder the dormancy that should start to occur in mid summer. NOTE: If your Japanese maple is planted in a bed surrounded by annuals and perennials, do not fertilize after mid summer. A useful step is to mulch the trees with compost or bark mulch to protect the roots from winter freezing and hot, dry conditions in summer. consistent, even watering rather than large amount few and far between.įertilizer requirements are not intense one light feeding in spring prior to leaf emergence is adequate as they are not heavy feeders. The key to irrigation is uniformity rather than quantity, i.e. Established Japanese maples will thrive without additional irrigation as long as they are properly mulched to maintain even soil moisture. With this said, however, slow down on the watering in late summer to allow the trees to begin to enter dormancy properly. Also remember to water in the morning or the early evening to avoid scorching the leaves in the summer midday sun. Provide consistent watering throughout the growing season, especially with newly planted trees. If clay is apparent, add compost, sand, and peat moss to lighten the soil or consider a raised bed to lift the tree’s roots and create a specimen site. The ideal soil is a sandy loam and must be well drained and consistently moist without being overly wet. NOTE: When applying mulch, keep it a few inches away from the trunk to allow for proper air circulation. Mulching will also help maintain consistently moist soil at this and will help to insulate the roots through the coming winter. Many people forget that newly planted trees require a lot of water even in the fall until the winter rains begin. Be sure to water regularly and deeply until the ground freezes and the tree has become dormant. This will also make for a better start to new growth in the spring. Try and plant at least 4 – 6 weeks before the ground freezes to allow for new feeder roots to develop and establish. This is the tree’s way of protecting itself against lack of water and new growth should start to appear within a few weeks after a thorough soaking is given to the root zone. In extreme drought conditions, the maple may lose all of its leaves. New trees can be planted in spring or fall.īe sure to water deeply at least twice a week and never let the Japanese maple dry out! It leaf tip burn occurs, the tree may be getting too much afternoon sun or not enough water. ![]() A spot that receives intermittent shade from larger deciduous trees is also appropriate for hot areas on the south or west side of the house. A bright, north or east side of a house is usually ideal because it is sheltered from wind and the heat. Most respond best to a spot that receives full morning sun and afternoon shade. ![]() When choosing the site for a Japanese maple, be sure to select one that is sheltered from strong winds and severe afternoon heat. This allows for companion plants and shrubs to be planted nearby without the fear of competition from the maples. Japanese maples have a fibrous root system that will predominantly grow in the top layer of the soil.
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